Greece - Land of Fortresses

We had heard about the beauty of Nafplio, a charming seaside town not far from Athens, but it wasn't until we got down to really exploring the town that we were totally won over. Our day in Nafplio proved to be one of the most perfect Spring days. 

The view from our Pensione overlooking the town of Nafplio

The blue of the Agean

This was truly the day of stunning views, on top of the Palamidi Fortress. This early 18th century, Venetian-built citadel was regarded as a masterpiece of military architecture, with multiple bastions and its defensible position at the top of the 216-m high rock outcropping. The cliff walls were sheer and it was strategically located to overlook the town and its approaches. 

The view from the Fortress
Photo Credit: Dawn LX

More Agean Blue. It's incredible

Dawn is gutsy. 

Can you spot the guy swimming in the ocean? The water was cold, to be sure. 

Basking. 

Pondering.
Photo Credit: Dawn LX 

I could live life like this.
Photo Credit: Dawn LX

 After a morning of hilarious photos and daring stunts, we descended to the town center to grab a quick lunch, and explore the town while it was sunny and gorgeous.

Once again, these doors say so much.

Charming side streets

Souvenirs

My magical elixir. Thick, sandy coffee, ah. Jetlag, what jetlag?

 After a chill day, we made our way back to Athens (not too far a drive), to see if we could catch the other sights in Athens we had missed because of the Easter holiday. Unfortunately, it seemed that the Easter holidays had not yet ended, so no Roman Agora for us this trip.

Random drum circle

Greek men were, ahem, friendly.
Photo Credit: Dawn LX

Just hanging.
Photo Credit: Dawn LX

 With the rental Audi returned, next stop - the islands!

Greece - Birthplace of the Olympics

[Note: Sorry for the long delay between posts - started a new job a few months ago, and things have been hectic! I'm going to try to be better this year!]

OLYMPIA - When we awoke the next day, the air was still damp from rain the day before. We were undeterred and headed straight to the site of Ancient Olympia, a quick walk from the modern-day tourist town. We were greeted by greenery and fresh spring blooms.

The site was believed to have begun as a small regional festival which included athletic contests, but in 776 BCE, King Iphitos of Elis declared the first official Quadrennial Olympic Games, which were held in honour of Zeus. For five days around the time of the first full moon in August, Greek-born males (and later Romans) competed in wrestling, chariot and horse racing, the pentathlon (wrestling, discus, javelin throwing, long jump and running), and the pancratium (a martial art). Slaves and women were not allowed to enter as participants or spectators. The games were held until 394 CE when they were banned by Emperor Theodosius I for being a pagan festival [Info from Lonely Planet Greece]. 

Swarms of Tourists

Finding some details among the ruins

Given the setting, I couldn't help but go for a sprint. This was the site of the palaestra (wrestling school) where contestants practised and trained.
Photo Credit: Dawn LX

An archway leading to the stadium. Amazing that it was still pretty much intact.
Photo Credit: Dawn LX

The first stadium - 120 metres. It was built to seat 45,000, and only the judges' seats remain. 

Kids running the 120m. 

Hera's altar - where the Olympic torch is lit (see photo below)

Photo Credit: Dawn LX

We then proceeded to the accompanying museums, where we found some remarkably preserved artifacts. 

The Nike of Paeonios - statue of the Goddess Nike which was a votive offering to Zeus from the Messenians and Naupactians in thanksgiving for their victory in the war against the Spartans ( around 421 BCE). The statue was 2.11m in height. 

Tiny Statuette of Zeus, shown with a thunderbolt in his right hand (470-460 BCE)

Tiny Statuette of Athena, wearing an aegis and a helmet. In her left hand she holds an owl, and a (missing) spear in her right hand. From the beginning of 5th Century BCE. 

Statue, probably of Poppaea Sabina, second wife of Nero. 1st half of 1st Century CE. 

How everything would have looked more than 2000 years ago. 

As the museum started to get crowded, we decided it was time to get on the road again, zooming through the picturesque interior of the Peloponnese.

Mysterious mountain towns clinging to the cliffside while fog/clouds flutter carelessly over them. You can't make this stuff up!

See the road, cut into the cliff? Yes, that's what we were driving on. 

Sweet little village nestled among rolling hills, cut by a ribbon of road. Seriously, can this place get more charming? 

Roadside Memorials

The lonely road ahead
Photo Credit: Dawn LX

We were headed to the lovely seaside city of Nafplio - described by the Lonely Planet as "one of Greece's prettiest and most romantic towns" - and it didn't disappoint. 

The first sign that we were approaching our destination - The Palamidi Fortress, which sits on a 216m high rock outcrop, dominates the skyline of Nafplio. Note the many, many steps which lead up to the fortress on the left.

By the time we got to Nafplio, it was late in the afternoon, and we spent the remaining hours of daylight delighting in our hotel and the little shops tucked away in a multitude of alleyways.

 Our little inn sat at the top of one of the hills with spectacular views of the city.

Our cute room!

The view

Tee hee

We found ice cream!

Greece - Land of the Oracle

It was the day to visit the Oracle! We've all heard about the Oracle at Delphi, but I've never stopped to think about what it was. In practice, the oracle was a priestess serving at the Temple of Apollo, who  spoke for Apollo, Greek God of the Sun (and light, and poetry, and a whole host of other things).  Pilgrims sought out answers from the seer priestess who entered a trance before giving a response. This often cryptic answers were then translated by a priest. The Oracle at Delphi was considered to be one of the most powerful in ancient Greece, and was regularly consulted by rulers.

At the recommendation of our innkeeper, we chose to visit the Museum before going to site. It was  rainy day, and we had high hopes that the weather would clear a little later in the morning. The museum and site are about 5 minutes walk out of the main town area, and we got to the museum bright and early to avoid the bus-loads of tourists that were to follow. The museum houses the treasures unearthed at the Delphi site, and it was useful education for us before going to the site.

Rain

The Sphinx of the Naxians, a guardian of the Temple of Apollo at Delphi, approx. 570 -560 BCE.
Photo Credit: Dawn LX

Relief depicting a battle between the Olympian Gods and the Giants, the children of Gaia.
Photo Credit: Dawn LX

Even more detail. That the features were still so clear was amazing to me. 

The twins of Argos, votive offerings at Delphi, probably from the 6th century BCE.
Photo Credit: Dawn LX

A white kylix (drinking cup) depicting Apollo crowned with myrtle leaves, seated on a lion-legged stool. He is holding a lyre and pouring wine from a navel-phiale in an offering of libation. The black bird is probably a crow, recalling his love for Aigle-Koroni, daughter of King Phlegyas. 480-470-BCE. (adapted from the museum's description of the artifact).  

Cult Statue of Antinoos, a youth of extraordinary beauty and beloved companion of Emperor Hadrian. He drowned in the Nile at a young age, and was thereafter made a hero and worshipped as a demigod by order of the Emperor. 1st century BCE. 

The Charioteer, bronze statue depicting the charioteers in panhellenic games. The statue was preserved from looting and destruction because it was buried in the debris of the great earthquake of 373 BCE. Considered a masterpiece of the Severe Style (transitional phase between archaic and classical periods).  480-460 BCE. 

Feeling a lot more knowledgeable about Delphi, we ventured over to the archaeological site itself. It was still raining but the fogginess added to the mysterious feel of the place.

Misty mountains served as the backdrop today. 

Every city-state had their own little treasury build to house their valuable offerings.
Photo Credit: Dawn LX

View of the Athenian Treasury. 

The Altar of Apollo
 Photo Credit: Dawn LX

The setting of the Temple of Apollo

Entry way to the Temple of Apollo. The priestess would sit in a tripod seat over a fissure in the earth, from which fumes  rose to put the priestess in a trance, allowing her to give answers to her questioners.

More ruins

The whole site was built on the side of a mountain, so it was an upward climb. 

The Temple of Apollo dominated the site. 

Well-preserved theater from 4th century BCE. The theater was restored by the Pergamenon kings in 1st Century BCE. Plays were performed here every four years during the Pythian Festival.

View of the theater and the Temple of Apollo from above. 

Above the theater was the stadium, one of the best preserved in Greece. 

After a wet morning in Delphi, we set off on our next destination in the Peloponnese - Ancient Olympia, birthplace of the Olympic Games. The drive was spectacular as we hugged the shores of the Gulf of Corinth.

We stopped for a lunch break at the resort-town of Galaxidi, (population: 3030), which had pretty streets and charming waterfront dining.

We heart poppy flowers!

Funny door.

Picturesque streets

We stumbled into this bakery with yummy yummy treats!

More goodies than we could handle. 

Our hole in the wall lunch spot was in the Lonely Planet. Food was ok, but the old couple that ran this place were really adorable!

Octopus. 

Humus!

Clouds creeping over the mountain. 

After Galaxidi, we drove straight on to Olympia, half of it on highways which weren't too picturesque, except for this very ironic moment:

Tee hee.
Photo Credit: Dawn LX.

By the time we got to Olympia, the light was falling, and we decided to make our ancient ruin-exploration the following day. Didn't stop us from wandering around town and then going to a local restaurant for dinner.

Olympia
Photo Credit: Dawn LX

The tiny restaurant of Thea a distance away from town. The owner's 100 year old grandmother was there the whole time. Photo Credit: Dawn LX

Stuffed, fried peppers. Yum.
Photo Credit: Dawn LX

Local pasta.
Photo Credit: Dawn LX

In the next post...the ruins of Ancient Olympia!