Gone Munching: Iceland - Day 5 - Seals, Horses and Secret Wishes

We started Day 5 slowly, slightly miserable after a sad hotel stay in Hotel Blonduos. Compared to what we'd been experiencing in the last 5 days, we were a little taken aback by the bad, bad state of the room. Here's a tip: In Iceland, always ask if the rooms with the shared showers are in the same building as the main hotel with the pretty pictures and all. We were put in a different, more run-down building, and the shared showers were in bad shape and a little creepy. In general, not impressed.

Moving on... we started the day heading out to Hvitsekur, a bird cliff with dramatic arches - albeit a little smaller than I had expected from the guidebook pictures. Still, a pretty photo opportunity, and a great chance to breathe in the fresh ocean breeze. Local folk legend has it that this was actually a troll turned into stone by the sun.

Hvitsekur

We passed a cute little church on the way in Blonduos. Iceland really has the prettiest little churches, each one more iconic than the last. This one was opened in 1993.

Church in Blonduos

The organ inside the church
Photo Credit: CT Goh

Loved the clean, Scandinavian look inside the church.
Photo Credit: CT Goh

We drove along the coast towards the wind-swept, seal-hangout cliffs of Illugstadir, where we spotted - you guessed it - seals!

We loved the helpful signage

Everything was windswept.

This was what we saw at first... lots of birds.
Photo Credit: Sharon Chan

But with better zooming -- do you see the seals? Cute, aren't they?

In driving this route, we actually had to bypass the Western Fjords, renowed for rugged wilderness. It was not an easily accessible area of Iceland, but is supposed to be a place of wild, untamed beauty. Another hike, for another day.

We decided that we would indulge today in understanding another of Iceland's great sources of pride: The Icelandic Horse. These horses are pure breeds, having been brought in by settlers from Norway in the 9th century. They appear at first glance almost like pygmy horses - smaller and more squat in structure, but this is an adaptation which has allowed the horse to survive the harsh weather conditions in Iceland. Icelandic horses are prized for their strength and stamina. Iceland has banned the import of horses into the country, allowing this horse to remain pure, and generally free of diseases that other horses suffer.

We made it to a horse riding farm at Gauksmyri, where the owners and staff were kind and friendly, despite our last minute walk-in request for rides.

I was just impressed by the gentleness of these horses and never felt more secure on a horse! (and I have ridden a number in my lifetime). Saying goodbye to these gentle creatures, we turned towards the usual spectacular driving scenery. After the horse-ride, I was also feeling particularly partial to pastoral scenery.

Our destination was the town of Stykkiholmur, on the Snaefellsnes peninsula. On the way, we made a "spiritual" stop at Helgafell or "holy mountain". This is a 73-m hill where, according to local folklore, first-time visitors will have three wishes granted as long as the following conditions were met: (1) don't speak on the way up, (2) make your wishes facing east, (3) dont tell any one what the wishes are, and (4) only benevolent wishes allowed.

It wasn't a particularly big hill. On the whole, an easy (and quiet) climb up.
Photo Credit: CT Goh

The view facing East (after I had deposited my wishes to the wind) into the Breidafjordur Bay

There was a little fort of rocks and a sundial at the crest which was... curious. There was something about this place that made my hair stand a little. I didn't stay very long.

Rock fort and sundial
Photo Credit: Sharon Chan

A quick descent

We checked into Hotel Framnes at Grandafjordur - easily the best hotel we had on our trip. It was charming and lovely, and I Super-Endorse it!

The Event of Day 5 for me was dinner. Because all the days before were crazy driving days, we rarely got a chance for a good sit-down meal. And today was the day we got to visit a nice restaurant to sample the famous Icelandic fish. It was sweet, flakey and perfectly cooked. These Icelanders certainly know how to handle fish.